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Our meeting at Pella.
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Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Posts: 385
Location: mexico

PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apelles wrote:
Hi all,
This is just a short update to say that Joanna and Alejandro are having a fantastic time on the trip.They,ve been to Pella and yesterday were in Aegae (Vergina) visiting Philip,s tomb and the theatre where he was assassinated and Alexander was crowned king.Now they,re heading for Dion and Mt Olympos.
It all sounds wonderful.I wish to hell more of us could have gone!

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy wonderful Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy I cant imagine, truly Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy it must be fascinating
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Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Posts: 385
Location: mexico

PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joanna wrote:

Alejandro and I had a great time !!!!!

It`s a pity the rest of you couldn`t make it.
I will prepare a detailed description of our trip and post it as soon as I can ( no promises for `as soon as I can` but I`ll try )

Im so happy x u both Joanna and Alejandro what a supertravel aroud ALEXANDER THE GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
I want every little detail of the trip ok Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It really does sound wonderful, how terrific it would have been if more of us had gone!! I agree!!!
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think, maybe, they're talking about Egypt for next year. Alexandria, Siwa - it should be incredible.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cindoo15 wrote:
I think, maybe, they're talking about Egypt for next year. Alexandria, Siwa - it should be incredible.

OMG! that's where I want to go - all my life thought of going to Egypt. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexandria........and I was hoping to visit Greece.....taking in Macedonia Sad
Damnit all.........I want to visit Alexandria too...... Rolling Eyes choices, choices......looks in piggy bank....hmmmh.... wonder if some shirt buttons would be acceptable.. Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

“ Our trip to Pella “

(9 days of bliss )

I returned home in the evening of the 19th July . At 4.00 pm I went to pick up my friend Daniela from the airport of Athens. We drove straight to my country house in the Peloponnese. Yes, it was the evening of the 19th. I was now back home but my heart and my thoughts were not… Sad They had stayed in Pella, Aegae, Dion, Delphi….They had stayed with Alejandro, who was still in Athens.


Now, I’m sitting in my little room with all my treasure ( books, photos, souvenirs ) in front of me and I can glance at them any time I want. My mind is calmed down. After all these marvellous ‘9 days’ coming back home is not the best thing that can happen to you.
Nine days of bliss! The best of my memories.

It’s high time I started putting on paper my account of the trip.

It’s late. Very late. Everybody is sleeping, my two dogs, too. Only some crickets keep me company. Silence. Good. I’m starting. The unforgettable trip. The trip to Pella: the immortal city.

You will certainly want to know about the other places we visited. You’re right and I will tell you about all of them, of course. But, Pella is in my heart more than the others. I walked at a place where Alexander had walked. I looked around me and I saw a panoramic view, the same that Alexander had seen. I visited the Agora the one that Alexander had visited many times. What else to ask from life? I was living one of the happiest moments in my life! I was there, at last! Alexandros’ birth place!

I’ll divide this description of the trip into four parts:

1) 11th and 12th July--- Ancient Corinth, Thessaloniki, Pella and back to Thessaloniki
2) 13th and 14th--- Aegae(Vergina), Katerini, Dion, Olympus, Larissa
3) 15th and 16th --- Thermopylai, Delphi, Thebes, Athens
4) 17th, 18h and 19th---Athens


11th July, 2006

It was around 10.00 pm when Alejandro and I arrived in Thessaloniki. We had set off from my country house and after the necessary stop at the ancient Corinth, we continued for the capital of north Greece. Around 800 km. Were we tired? No way! We were so excited about our trip that we, simply, didn’t have time to become tired.

Ancient Corinth.

Our first stop We had a brief visit at the archaeological site. As we were in a hurry to go north ( to Pella actually) we spent there just the necessary time to be able to say that “ I have been there”. Wrong!
Anyway, we were given a leaflet with a plan of the site but we had a hard time to identify the ruins as there are no signs with the names of the buildings. Shame! Most of the remains are Roman. Very few ones survive from Greek times, because of the total destruction of the city in 146 BC by… the Romans. Typical of them. Then they regretted doing so, and they started reconstructing it.
I bought a book with all the information of the archaeological sites at every place we visited. Good and bad thing to do. ‘Good’ as I, now, know everything about the places in detail. ‘Bad’ because I missed millions of things. Alejandro, you can’t imagine how many things we failed to see! You know what we should have done? We should’ve read everything about the places before our visit there. A general knowledge about them is not enough, believe me, especially during a first visit. For me, except Delphi and Athens, it was my first visit to these places like Alejandro.
We have to go back. I am going back!

Ok, here is my “Ancient Corinth” book. Let me see. It says that amongst the few Greek remains is the archaic temple of Apollo, seven monolithic Doric columns still remain standing, (middle of the 6th c BC ); the ancient stadium, the theatre, a small temple (?), the north and the south stoa (Classical period ); the north-west stoa ( Hellenistic period ). We saw them. I don’t remember which small temple they mean.

The Museum

On the wall facing the entrance hangs a floor mosaic with a representation of griffins from the 4th century B.C.

Pieces of special interest are:

1) a relief synthesis of the Archaic period showing the Amazonomachy.

2) the head of a young man; late Archaic period.

3) Some fragments of clay sphinxes of the Archaic period which have kept their original colours.

4) a copper mirror with a representation of a woman with her hairdresser and slave.

5) several inscribed clay tablets of the 8th century B.C. bearing some of the first know examples of the Greek alphabet.

6) a Roman copy of the head of Doryphoros from the original of Polykleitos.

7) a sacrophagus with decorations in relief representing the expedition of the Seven against Thebes.

-Do you remember all this Alejandro?

We tried to find the place where Alexander was named “Hegemon” of all Greece.
Did we succeed in doing so? Don’t ask.

And where did that famous meeting of Alexander and Diogenes take place?
Who knows?

Other places worth seeing at Corinth and around it (yes, the ones we failed to see).

-During our next visit there we should see the paved road which leads to one of the two ancient ports of Corinth, the Lechaion. The other port, Cenchrae, with its ancient foundation can still be seen.

- A visit in Sicyon is a must. Not only because Lyssipus … was born there but there are also the Akraia Tyche and the Dioskouroi shrines, the temples of Dionysos, Athena, Asklepios, Aphrodite, Demete, and Hera. There are also a council-house (bouleuterion), stoa and a gymnasium. Did I forget something? Oh, yes, the theater! Archaeological sites in Greece without a theater is like a house without windows. LOL

- Nemea, with its stadium, the agora, the theater, you know. How many ancient theatres are there in whole Greece I wonder! One should be offered to me so I can stage my play. Let me think, let me think…which one I prefer. Ah, yes, the theatre of Aegae! Not bad choice! The best!!!!

Ah, I forgot. All the above places have a museum, of course!

After eating a cheese pie, which is found everywhere and which Alejandro found delicious and kept on eating one (together with the spinach type), we started going north. Pella, we’re coming!

So, as I said, around 10.00 p.m. we arrived in Thessaloniki. We found our hotel easily(?!) after asking only 3 different people for directions! Why are people so bad at giving directions? Any way, finally, we found “Hotel Amalia”. I took ‘a room with a view’, that is the sea. Alejandro was not that lucky. Before sleeping ( we were not tired, remember?) we watched part of the documentary “ In the footsteps of Alexander the Great” by Michael Wood. If I tell you we didn’t like it, do you believe us? No, you don’t? You’re right. We hated it! I would say only half an hour of the entire documentary is worth seeing it. The rest….don’t ask. Conclusion: Wood doesn’t seem to know and understand Alexander. No way! A show of knowledge on him. That’s all.

12th July, 2006

After breakfast at a café near the hotel, (breakfast was not included in the price) where you can buy something to eat at very low prices ( Alejandro was amazed of that), and after risking of getting a fine, as we hadn’t renewed the parking ticket in the car, we drove to Pella. At last! The adventure was about to begin. As we were driving closer and closer my heart was beating faster and faster. I didn’t say anything to Alejandro. It was not necessary. He had understood it.

Oh, yes, we arrived in the new town. It is next to the ancient one. You can even go there on foot.
What was the first thing we saw entering the town? The Statue of Alexander! YES! Alexander’s fantastic. We parked the car quickly in front of a mini market. I rushed out to go to see the statue ( Alejandro had already got out) when I heard the owner of the shop asking me if I could park the car a little lower as it was exactly in front of the entrance of his shop. Damn! Mad That man was delaying my visit to the monument. I went back to the car and I did what he asked. Now, nothing and no one could stop us. We were watching and admiring our Alexander. I started taking photos and at a moment Alejandro told me. ”Come on, you have to be quick for this one.” Then, all of a sudden I saw him climbing up on the statue. I laughed seeing him doing so. Holding Alexander’s leg and smiling, Alejandro had a special moment in his life. I took some nice photos of my… two gorgeous Alexanders. I had a special moment in my life, too!

Did we start the trip the best way?
You bet, we did!

We walked in the town, a cute, small one. Nice cafés, small shops; it was even a day for an open market so we bought some fruit, peaches. Something I noticed which Alejandro didn’t. I saw a lot of people with blue eyes (did you get it, Alejandro?). Why am I asking this to Alejandro, you wonder. Well, he insists that Alexander had dark eyes! I believe he was a blue-eyed man. Or grey, maybe? Blue, grey?? LOL
We asked where the archaeological site was. They told us a certain direction. As I said, you can reach it on foot. Then we saw a sign indicating “ To the Palace”. It was at the opposite direction. We kept our visit there for the end. That would be a special one.

So we decided to go first to the archaeological site and the museum . We spent around 3 hours looking at the ruins. A lot of archaeologists were working there. “They have never stopped working here”, the man we got the tickets told me. A small detail (small?). I paid a full ticket at all places we visited. I’m a teacher but it doesn’t make any difference. If I was there with a group of students, during a school trip, It would be free, also for… me. Because for Alejandro it was free! Students don’t pay. He didn’t pay a penny! Lucky him! But his free tickets were ugly. Mine are different. They are elegant! I told him:

Your tickets are plain.
Mine are beautiful!
Your tickets are not worth keeping them.
Mine will be kept for ever!
Your tickets have no value.
Mine are worth a lot!
Yes, they are!
Pella ticket (the site and the museum) 6 euros. But, on it there is a photo of the Marble head of Alexander the Great, which is the masterpiece of the museum. I’ll tell you more about it later.

Pella, the capital of ancient Macedonia.

I’m reading from my ‘Pella’ book.

Pella was not the capital of the Macedonian kingdom from the date of its foundation. Perdikkas, the inaugurator of the royal dynasty of the Argeadai , founded Aegae ( now Vergina) as the capital of his kingdom around the middle of the 7th century.
It was the king Archelaos (413-399 B.C.) a major political figure, who transferred the capital from Aegae to Pella. Archelaos was an important personality in Macedonian history. He was on good terms with southern Greece. Intellectual and artistic guests were very welcomed at his court. For example, Euripides, spent the last year of his life there, where he wrote the tragedies “Archalaos”, which has not survived, and the “Bacchae”, his masterpiece. Archelaos built a majestic palace in Pella which has decorated by Zeuxis, the greatest painter of the age.
But why did Archelaos transfer the capital to Pella? Because that time, Pella was a coastal city and he wanted to reorganise not only the army but the fleet, as well. As I said he had already peaceful relations with the rest of Greece so he looked for another place in the easternmost part of the kingdom, preferably by the sea. The Macedonians expansionist designs in the east had started to be seen.
Pella was perfect. Except the sea, the region had thick forests. It was this striking mysterious landscape, with its dense forests that inspired Euripides to write the “Bacchae”. What else to say here. There are millions of things in the book.
Let me go on with our visit to the ancient town.

At roughly the center of the city is the Agora. The Agora is crossed from east to west by a large street (15 m wide). The immediate neighbourhood of the Agora was occupied by sanctuaries, public buildings and the most important of the private residences.
Pella was very well fortified. The north defence wall encloses three hills, the central are being the palace hills.

The private residences

Let me start with them. They are of great scholarly interest. For me, they are beautiful. There are two that are the most important. Both were two- storey houses.
The first is ‘The House of Dionysos’ ; the well-known mosaics “The Lion hurt”, and “Dionysos seated on a panther” were found there in 1957. The lion hunt was found in one of the andrones (banquet rooms), in the north-west part. The scene occupies the center of the floor. To the south of the andron with the lion hunt mosaic is the andron with the mosaic of Dionysos seated on a panther which fills the entire floor. The floor of the antechamber to this andron is covered with white and black pebbles arranged in concentric triangles.

The second important house is ‘The House of the Abduction of Helen’. Three andrones here. The central of these is the largest. A mosaic scene fills the entire floor. The main scene depicts Helen being abducted by Theseus. A work of high quality. The workmanship is superb, especially that of the horses. The expression of fear is evident on the women’s faces. Beautiful.

The floor of the neighbouring room to the east is also adorned with a mosaic, in a excellent state of preservation. It’s the “deer hunt”. Despite the similarities with the mosaic of the lion hunt, in this mosaic there is a three-dimensional feel.

Another interesting detail for this mosaic. The mosaicist responsible for the composition signed the work: “Gnosis made”.
He is the first mosaicist in the history of the art to sign his work.
Gnosis was more than just an ordinary mosaicist: he was a gifted artist who made unique use of the new expressive paths that opened up in painting at his period. The floor of the third andron to the west has been almost completely destroyed. Only one corner of the mosaic decoration has been preserved, consisting of a running dog pattern and floral motifs.

[i]The Sanctuaries [/i]

A sanctuary dedicated to the cult of Aphrodite was discovered to the north of the Agora. Another one was found in the north-east section of the city, where the festival of the Thesmophoria was held in honour of Demeter Thesmophoros. It is a simple circular precinct. And one more sanctuary was discovered in the region of the modern irrigation canal, dedicated to Darron, a god of healing.

The cemeteries

We had a quick look there. They are next to the road. Alejandro jumped down (no surprises any more with this guy) and he walked there. I took his photo. I understood that he likes (or doesn’t care?) being taken photos. He doesn’t like to take photos. The opposite of the majority of the people. Oh yes, he’s a very extraordinary man!
The tombs are mainly shallow cutting in the natural rock. I didn’t care of these ordinaries tombs. The following day was the day to visit Aegae (Vergina). That is the place of the royal tombs and the tombs we were interested in were there!

The museum

Opposite the archaeological site there is the museum. Small but nice. It has 3 rooms.
A plan of the ancient city based on the remains made it possible for us to complete the picture we formed as we toured the site.
Now, let me tell you something that Alejandro and I found very, very strange. In the museums,”posing” is not allowed. If you pose, the attendants come to you and tell you to delete the photo, not always in a polite way (I think they are fed up of repeating the same and the same). If you take a photo and people are near the exhibits, there is no problem. Only posing is forbidden! Why? Who knows these things! Alejandro dared to ask one of the attendants in a museum (and as we had guessed) she didn’t know the reason. “We’re told to say so”, the answer was!
So, nobody seems to know why people cannot pose near the exhibits. But…I repeat but… at the museum in Pella, they…. don’t care. You want to pose? No problem. It’s Ok. Any logical explanation? Alejandro posed next to the Marble head of Alexander. For the second time I had my two Alexanders together again Very Happy .

Pieces of interest.

Room 1

- Two pieces of roof-tiles of Laconian type from houses which are inscribed with the name of the city “Pellis” (of Pella)
- a marble dog (probably part of a grave monument)
- a marble statue of a female figure seated on a rock ( probably a Muse)
- great quantity of pottery
- household crafts
- jewellery
- coins (silver octadrachm of Alexander I two gold coins of our Alexander and two coins of Demetrios Poliorcetes (293-283 B.C.)
- metal objects
- iron keys
- bronze attachments from the doors, doorknockers
- bronze attachments from beds (fulcra)
- clay figurines
- red-figure vases and urns
- cover lids
- a lot of moulds from the workshops
- amphoros for transporting wine ( The wine of Pella was famous in antiquity.)

Room II

-There is a Hellenistic marble statuette of Alexander –Pan .The depiction of Alexander as Pan is evidence for the worship of the goat-footed god at Pella.

- The large Attic red-figure hydria is dated to the 5th or the beginning of the 4t century B.C. The main side of the vase depicts the contest between Athena and Poseidon for the name of Athens. Do you know the story? Interesting.

-Terracotta figurine of a sleeping Eros from the east cemetery (second half of the 4th century B.C)

-A lot of female protomes with a variety of coiffures.

Room III

-The five mosaic floors detached from the archaeological site are displayed on the walls in this room. We asked another visitor to take a photo of us in front of the Lion Hunt. Posing? No problem here, remember?

- In this same room there is the marble head of Alexander dating from the Hellenistic period, a chance find from the area of Yannitsa (a city near). On my way out of the museum I spotted (I’m very good at that Cool ) an exact copy of it. What did I do? I bought it, of course. They gave me a paper (with a lot of stamps; looks very official, gosh!) saying that this is only a copy of the Pella museum. “In case you have to show it at the customs”, they told me. Well, was it necessary? Do I look like someone who can steal original exhibits from a museum? Oh, my God! Did they see me stealing the stones from the archaeological site Confused ? LOL

-Another chance find of the Hellenistic period, is the marble statuette of a horseman with his chlamys blowing in the wind. Oh, yes, yes, very beautiful. I don’t have the slightest idea what it looks like …do you, Alejandro?
We have to go back! One visit to Pella and her museum is not enough. One visit to all the places we saw is NOT enough. I’m preparing the Delphi day description; you can’t imagine, Alejandro, how many things we missed. A lot!!! I want to cry….and you will cry when you find out about them…

THE PALACE of PELLA…at last!

We went back to the car, Alejandro carrying the…heavy marble head of Alexander (always a gentleman), my precious copy (copy… unfortunately), and we drove to the Palace. Asking someone about it, we were told that people can’t go in and visit the ruins (what?), “for the time being”, he added. I didn’t care. I had to see it, even from outside. Ok, we were there. What a disappointment! It’s fenced in. But that was not the main problem. The problem is that the Palace looks abandoned! My heart sank when I saw it. They say it is so because the remains are in a very poor state of preservation. I understand that but they must start new excavation there. Grrr! I’m angry!
It was only me and Alejandro around the Palace that moment. A thought crossed my mind, a very crazy one. I didn’t say it to Alejandro. I had a look around and seeing nobody I thought of… climbing up the fence and get in. Is it madness? Well, not really, if you could see how I was feeling that moment. Very excited and angry at the same time. A strong combination, believe me. But something stopped me from doing so. I thought of Alejandro. I was afraid he would follow me. I didn’t want him to be in trouble if we were caught.
The place where Alexander was born in such a state! What the hell! It deserves the best treatment. Closing my eyes for a minute a reconstruction of the whole Palace passed in front of me. Beautiful, impressive, glorious…
Alejandro doesn’t know how exactly I fell that moment. I didn’t say it to him. This time, I know, he didn’t understand a thing.

City and Palace were designed simultaneously. The Palace is built on a broad, flat hill and covers an area of about 60,000 (only?) square metres.

If only we had managed to walk at the Palace area! I should have done so, after all. I regret it now. You’d better open the place again, archaeologists, because nobody can stop me the next time I go there. I swear I’ll do it!
I want to visit the remains. I want to visit the courtyards. I want to walk to the residential area. I want to see the palestra, the swimming pool on the inner walls of which hydraulic cement is preserved to a height of 0.90 m. I want to see the place which housed the royal family. I want to stand exactly at the place where Alexandros was born. Would I take anything from there? Any guesses? Rolling Eyes

“The view of the Palace from the city, with its long facade and vast numbers of columns, must have been very imposing, and the view from the stoas over the thronging city, the sea and the surrounding forests must have been enchanting”, I’m quoting from my ‘Pella’ book.

Now, it’s time to say, officially, that I promised myself to buy some land there and build my own ‘palace’. I’m already working on the plan; a smaller, smaller copy of the actual Palace. I will even make my own mosaic floors ( exact copies of the originals ; copies, copies, copies! I’m fed up with only copies… ).
I have the feeling that soon I will make it. It already exists in my mind. I can even hear people saying “look that is the crazy woman who built a house like the palace”
I can see journalists visiting my place ( sorry, my ‘palace’ I wanted to say ) and asking me for interviews. I will become famous! What a glory!
And I laugh when I remember a remark that my niece, Natasa, made: “ Imagine, if after thousands of years the ruins of your house were found; you would confuse the archaeologists!”

Will you,Alexandrians, visit me there? You are very welcome!
You know, if an idea enters my mind, it stays there until it’s realized. Believe me, I know myself.

Afternoon. We found ourselves driving back to Thessaloniki. Let me make a small remark about Thessaloniki here. I liked it. It seems to be a beautiful city, not at all chaotic like Athens. Another privilege to have a house in Pella; I can visit Thessaloniki as often as I want. It’s near.
We decided to go to the museum first and have lunch (lunch? or dinner?) later.
What can I say? It’s fantastic. In the end we went to the shop of the museum and we were looking at some cards when Alejandro saw it: Philip’s cuirass! After the expected panic we were told that it had been removed to Vergina and can been seen there. What a relief! Then I saw Olympias on the gold coin which is the only one that has survived to portraying her. A small coin. She’s beautiful. Alejandro failed to see it. And, to my surprise, he didn’t go back to the museum to see it. Why not Alejandro? Then we saw on another card (they drove us crazy there) the silver cinerary urn from the ‘Prince’s tomb’, Alexander’s son. It was crowned with a gold wreath. Our second panic attack! I’m laughing now as I remember Alejandro asking me if I had seen it. After some thought I said I had. “What? I didn’t!, he shouted. I was about to say “Be careful next time, dear, you even missed Oympias!”, when the attendant of the shop overhearing us ( well, it was not difficult, we were screaming) she told us the silver urn was also taken to Vergina. I won’t forget Alejandro’s expression on his face when he said. “ Ah, you saw it, here!” “Well I thought so”, I said, “with so many things in there I got confused“. He didn’t realize I was teasing him. Oh, how much I enjoyed teasing him! In Vergina, I passed the limits. I’ll explain later Very Happy .

After the visit at the museum, we had a walk in the city. And ….there it was!!! From a distance we saw it. We saw him! Alexander on his Bucephalus! By the sea. What an impressive statue! We hurried to go near. God, it’s not only bigger than the one in Pella but there are also some sarissas and shields by it. We took photos, of course we did. Alejandro couldn’t climb on it this time. We were looking at it amazingly when it started raining. All of a sudden. We hurried to find a shelter until the rain stopped. We found a kiosk and we stayed under its big tent for some time. Good, the rain stopped. Then we realised we hadn’t eaten all day. We Just 'remembered' it. So, we had dinner at a place near the “White Tower” which is the landmark of Thessaloniki. Wrong!
“The Statue of Megas Alexandros “should be! Even one of the biggest cities in the world, NY,has a statue as its landmark, “The Statue of Liberty”. Now talking about that doesn’t it look like Alexander?
“The White Tower”, a former prison, Thessaloniki’s landmark. No comment! I was angry thinking about that, so I didn’t take any photos of it. Revenge! LOL.
Ah, I forgot , we also saw a statue of Philip in a square. I didn’t take a photo of it, either. Sorry, Philip, next time.

Back to the hotel . Exhausted but excited. That night we continued watching part of the documentary, yes, the rubbish one… I told Alejandro he could keep it but he said “No, thanks” . No surprise. LOL

What a ‘full’ day we had! But we had to go to bed and dream the next day: Our visit to Aegae, our visit to Vergina…Another Palace, the Theater, the Royal Tombs….God, how can I stand so much excitement!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW!!!!!How wonderful!Well done both of you.Joanna,I know you,re going to put up some of the photographs to show us exactly what you saw.I can,t wait for part two!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


13th July 2006

In the morning , still in Thessaloniki, I woke up early and went for a walk to see the city. I liked it; a lively, beautiful city, indeed. Yes, Athens is our capital but do you know what we, Greeks, think about Thessaloniki? There is more culture there now, we say, and there is even more in a nearby, small town called Pella where the most cultural house of the area will be built there soon. Did you know that? Oh, yes, I told you so
I had a coffee, alone ( I didn’t want to wake up Alejandro) and I started walking and exploring the place. Passing a big cosmetics shop I decided to go in just to have a look. I don’t need any make up. My beauty is natural Rolling Eyes , you see . But when I saw myself in a big mirror inside the shop, I almost had a heart attack. My hair was in a mess Shocked ! I urgently had to do something about it. I asked the attendants for a hairdresser’s near and they showed me one. A few things about my hair. It’s not straight. That means I like it straight. If it was straight, I wouldn’t like it like that but I’d like it curly or wavy as it is. Understand?
It’s true! And most of the people think the same way. They are not satisfy with what they have and want the opposite ( specially about hair and …not only! )

It’s still morning (amazing), after sightseeing in the city, being to a hairdresser’s and 3or 4 shops, only. It was very quick, wasn’t it? Especially about shopping, I’m very quick. Going to a shop I know exactly what I want, and as soon as I see it, I grab it , pay and go. Just like that.

It was around 11o’clock and it was time to go back to the hotel to meet Alejandro.It was a little late, I thought. Going there I was given a note by the receptionist. Alejandro had left it saying that he would be back around that time. It was a relief to find out that he was not waiting for me. But I had to wait for him! I checked out and I was waiting for him to come. That day was the ‘Aegae Day’. Where was he? The old capital of the ancient Macedonia , yes, the one before Pella. Because, as you know, Pella, being in a better place, was chosen as the new capital very, very wisely. Do you know why it was named Aegae? I’ll tell you if you don’t.

The modern village of Vergina with its 1500 or so inhabitants was founded in 1922 by refugees that came in the wake of Greece’s defeat in the Asia Minor campaign.. They and the locals made their home there and named it Vergina after a queen in a fairytale. That’s what my ‘Vergina’ book says. Then the archaeological site which is near (actually at the outskirts of the new village) was also named Vergina. Why? They shouldn’t have done that! The ancient site should have kept its original name, Aegae. Hmm…
The distance between Thessaloniki and Aegae is about 65 km, right Alejandro? We found it easily. We parked the car at a private parking lot ( very expensive: one and a half euros for all the day )
We started walking towards the Royal Tombs of the great tumulus. There we saw a big public parking lot. That explains the one and a half euros we paid before .
The Palace was kept as the second place to visit, again. Besides that, there was also the theater there, which we couldn’t wait to see! So, to avoid getting overwhelmed by emotion at the beginning of that day’s tour, we chose to visit the tombs first. If only we knew! Seeing Philip’s tomb was something that I will never forget; it will stay in my memory for ever! What a thrilling experience, God! Colin Farrell cried in front of it when he visited the place. I thought he might have put on a show. I don’t think so. I understand, now.

The Royal Tombs

“The Great Tumulus (man-made hillock)
The discovery in 1977 of a large not plundered Macedonian tomb ( the tomb of Philip) was momentous indeed, since it proved to be the last resting place of king Philip II”, my book says. A tremendous discovery, I’d say. Yes, I do envy the archaeologists who found it.

When we arrived at the entrance with a staircase which leads down to the Doric façade of his tomb, I felt very strange. Really, I felt weak and my hands started trembling with excitement. Too much excitement! If Alejandro had asked me something that moment, I wouldn’t have been able to respond. Fortunately he didn’t ask me anything. I think he was feeling the same. He and I remained silent looking at it. I couldn’t take my eyes away.
We stayed like that for some time. Silent. You remember, Alejandro? We couldn’t get enough of it. In front of our eyes, there, Philip’s tomb; the white, heavy entrance door; the four Doric columns; a red line on top of them ; nine short blue columns above it; and the wall painting of the hunt, adorning the upper part. “It’s a many-figured hunting scene, set within a verdant grove, remarkable for its composition and coloration”. Magnificent!
It is something sacred to me believe me. We were looking at the façade of a tomb that Alexander had looked at before us ( ops, here I go again ). Yes, he had looked at it, he had touched it! And after seeing that big door shut , he walked away in deep sorrow. He had tears in his eyes. We had to leave. Going up the stairs, I looked behind me to see it one more time. I was sad. I was close to tears Crying or Very sad .
We had to go on with our tour. I did promise Philip and his last wife, Eurydike to go back there. It was probably her burial in the antechamber.

Wait a minute. I have to stop writing for a while. I’m excited and I need a drink.

Ok, I’m better now. The exhibits we saw there are so many that I don’t think I can write all of them. I’ll write the important ones.
-The gold larnax which contained Philip’s bones. It was found inside the marble sarcophagus in the chamber of his tomb. The king’s bones were placed in the precious casket after his cremation. The lid is decorated with the large sixteen-rayed star, while on the sides are bands of lily, palmette and rosette ornaments. Splendid!
-Another gold larnax was found which is simpler and a little smaller. It had Eurydike’s bones.
-Their gold wreaths, diadems and jewellery.
-Precious weapons and costly silver vessels accompanied Philip in his tomb. Alexander had made sure that his father was given a proper and rich burial. He chose the best for him. His father who was assassinated at a place near. At a place that we were about to see soon. I was thrilled.
-Ok, here it is. Philip’s cuirass. We saw it. It was there. The iron and gold-embellished cuirass. To our astonishment it was smaller than we had expected. Philip was not a big man.
-Next to Philip’s tomb there is the “Prince’s tomb” of smaller dimensions and later in date. It was unplundered, too. The dead was a youth about 14 years old, who must have been a member of the royal family. He was probably Alexander’s son. His bones were kept in a silver urn crowned by a gold wreath. Alejandro and I were very happy to see it here. We hadn’t missed it in the Thessaloniki museum.
-Ivory relieves, wall-paintings ( the one from the “Tomb of Persephone” is superb ), silver wine strainers, askos and oenochoe, etc…….

A lot of things to see and admire.

On the way out on a big counter there was that special note-book where visitors can sign and write their comments about the visit. We read a good one ( it was in Spanish): “ Everything was marvellous, only Alexander was missing!” We laughed when we saw it and we completely agreed. Do you remember, Alejandro? Then you wrote something and we both signed I trusted you. Can you remind me again what you wrote?

We left. How long we stayed there! We took photos outside the tumulus. Ah, I forgot to say that inside it, taking photos is not allowed, not even without flash. I understand.

It was late afternoon. We were starving and we decided to have something to eat before going to the palace and…the theater. We had to be strong for all the coming excitement that was waiting for us.

We chose a taverna nearby. A lot of photos of Alexander inside. Even at Vergina with Philip’s tomb, you can easily see who the protagonist is. Alexander!

I honestly don’t remember what I ate as my mind was already in the Palace and the theater.
We finished eating. Now it was time to go there. Time for my heart to start beating fast again.. “Will I survive this trip?”, I wondered.

The Palace

“Built on a wide terrace on the west side of the ancient city, the concept of the architectural plan of the palace is based on that of the 4th-century BC Greek house. The large, central, peristyle court is surrounded by a Doric colonnade onto which the main rooms open. On the east side there was an upper storey, as the Ionic architectural members indicate, and a circular chamber, the tholos, dedicated to Herakles Patroos. The entrance to the Palace on that side was enhanced by its momumental aspect.”. Nice, this book is very well written.
On the south side are huge rooms with wonderful mosaic floors, where the famous Macedonian drinking parties (symposia) were held. There is where I did something that is not that legal You remember, Alejandro? Now, I’m so happy I did it Very Happy . And so are you, I guess. No regrets at all. Ha, ha. After all, Heuzey did the same , why not me?

Looking around the remains of the Palace I noticed that Alejandro was a little worried. He had that strange expression on his face and it was clearly that he was looking for something.
“What’s the matter?”, I asked him. “Where’s the theater?”, he asked. “ I can’t see it anywhere. “ “ Well, what theater? “, I said. “ THE theater!”, he shouted. ”Who knows, maybe there isn’t any “, I said calmly. “ What!”, he shouted even louder. “ I want the theater, I want to see the theater”. Do you mean the one at Dion?”, I told him.” There is a theater there”. I was driving the poor boy crazy! “ Is it that one over there?”, I continued , pointing to a part of the palace. “ Where?”, he asked in a despairing voice. “There!” I said continuing pointing at the same direction. “ I can’t see anything semicircular there”, he said. “ Ah, yes, the ancient theatres were semicircular”, I said smiling.
Ok, I was teasing him but that was enough. He was suffering. I told him to go and ask the people who sell the tickets at the entrance about the ‘mysterious’ theater. I was watching him asking them. The woman there said, “What? The theater?”. I laughed. Was she doing the same like me? Then she said in an unexciting way, as it was the least interesting thing on the earth, “ Ah, the theater. It’s over there. “
For us it was the most interesting thing in the world that moment.
It was on the left of the Palace. We rushed there and we saw it.
The ancient theater of Aegae !
It was discovered in 1982. It lies actually at the base of the large palace terrace, which fact suggests that the two buildings were conceived as a single complex. For this reason we were looking at the palace ruins to find it.
No guards around. Alejandro and I sat on the seats of the first row, on the ancient stones, actually!!! Are you jealous? Yes, my dear Alexandrians, you missed the chance to sit where Olympias was sitting ( more or less) to see the assassination of her husband. And who else was there? Cleopatra, their daughter. And who else? Her husband- to- be Alexandros of Epiros. And..??? And, what? WHO ELSE???
Oh, yes, Alexander!!!!!! He was there, too. He ran to help his father who was dying . Philip’s blood on his white cloak falling on the ground. The very same ground we were walking on. Alexander was kneeling by his father. I could see them, both.
Suddenly Alejandro went inside the orchestra and started walking there. He was smiling; pure ecstasy. You could easily tell how happy he was. He finally had his theater.
I was content myself, of course. No guards, no one to bother us. Perfect.
We stayed there for a long time. We took photos. Was it a dream we were living?
“Some people have all the luck “, they say. We were the ‘some people’ that moment.

It was late, even with a broken heart ( I didn’t want to leave the theater) we had to go. We chose Katerini for our next accommodation.
But before leaving we went shopping. Alejandro was looking for a ring with the Vergina Sun. After finding a shop and after trying on aaaallll the rings that poor man had there ( he’s not like me about shopping), Alejandro found his ring. Very nice. He kept on wearing it. He also bought a copy of an Alexander’s coin to wear as a charm aroung his neck. Beautiful. I got one for my nephew, too.
We arrived in Katerini and we found a cute hotel, right away. “Orpheas Hotel”. There was even internet connection there. Wow! What a luxury!
We had dinner at the hotel…the fruit we had bought in Pella, the peaches. Delicious! Everything is good in Pella.
Before sleeping we watched part of another documentary called “The Spartans”. This one was good and informative. What a life they had! Very hard, indeed.

14th July, 2006

I woke up before Alejandro, I think. I didn’t knock on his door, in case he was still sleeping. I didn’t want to wake him up early after the excitement we had the previous day. The boy had the right to sleep more. He had the right to relax.

I went out to see the city. Not bad. I bought a nice skirt and two shirts. Not bad, either.
I came back to the hotel and I found Alejandro using the internet. But we had to go. Alejandro had to make a sacrifice: to stop using it.
Did I mention a sacrifice? The right word to say, Dion was next. He and I had to go there to thank the gods for giving us this trip.

Dion , a sacred place for Alexander in the foothills of Olympos. Alexander and his father used to celebrate their victories at Dion. It was there that Alexander celebrated the preparations for his famous campaign by making splendid sacrifices to Zeus the Olympian father, organising competitions and holding brilliant receptions in his tent, which held one hundred couches. We stopped right in front of this spot and we had a look around. Big, flat. We could imagine the tent Behind it there was the theater. The Hellenistic one. That means the theater was there when Alexander had that special celebration. It might have been smaller but a theater was exactly there, at that spot. So, Alejandro, the theater we were looking at existed in Alexander’s time. We were wrong to think it didn’t. Wait a minute, an ancient Greek site without its theater? Is it possible. Nope! We should have thought of that. Now, like the beautiful theater of Epidaurus, this one at Dion is still used for artistic events, mainly performances of ancient drama.
Dion, Dion, Alexander had a special affection for this place. After seeing it, I can see why. The place is enormous, green, and has an abundance of spring water. The river at Dion was famous in antiquity because it was navigable. A place near Olympos and with plenty of water surely considered to be sacred and dedicated to Zeus but… not only. The cult of the Muses should also be sought in this region, but…not only that. There are a lot of Sanctuaries here, too. Demeter, Isis, Aphrodite, Zeus ( of course ), Asklepios…;.you name them.

The Sanctuary of Demeter

“Some small, single-roomed temples were built near the main ones, with stone tables in front of the statue of Demeter. On these tables were placed the first-fruits of the harvest. One such small temple was devoted to the worship of Baubo, who, with her lewd jokes, succeeded in cheering up the grieving Demeter after the loss of Persephone.”
Hm, nice. I was looking at them when I realized that Alejandro was lost. I couldn’t see him anywhere. That was not nice! I stayed there for some time waiting for him to appear. I mean waiting and waiting and waiting….I was about to give up and start my own tour to the place when I saw him coming . He had been to the next sanctuary of Iris and he asked me why I hadn’t gone along with him! “ But, this place is big, Alejandro and I didn’t know you were going there.”, I said. Then I wanted to go to see that place he had just been to and I told him so. “ I’ll come with you”, he told me. “ Again? No, it’s ok, I’ll go and you can wait for me HERE “, I said.
He came with me.

The Sanctuary of Iris

Originally it was the sanctuary of Artemis, and was built in the late Classical period. The festival of Isis was held twice each year, in spring and autumn. People could enter the precinct and offer sacrifices. Travelling salesmen set up tables around and sold things. Entrance to the adyton of the temple, however, was reserved for those to whom the great goddess appeared and spoke in their sleep. That made them very special and they were admired by the others.
Wait a minute, Alexander (who is a god ) appeared and spoke to me in my sleep. Am I admired? Am I special? Wow!

The Sanctuary of Olympian Zeus or Dios

The major one here. The place was dedicated and named after him. His temple a large Doric temple. The buildings in this sanctuary belong to various phases of the Hellenistic period.

The temple of Aphrodite Hypolympidia

The small building has a single chamber and its floor is worked into the form of a stepped cistern. The statue of Aphrodite stood in a rectangular recess. Another temple on the other side was also connected with Aphrodite judging by the statue of Eros. Now talking about that, Alejandro wondered why Eros has always been depicted as a plump baby with the arrows and bows ( babies are not supposed to play with them). He looks funny. A young man would be more appropriate, we thought. But I have seen Eros depicted as a young man..somewhere.

The two theatres

Here we have two not only one! The Hellenistic , as I said before ( built in the early 4th c BC), and the Roman ( built in the 2nd c AD ) which now lies in a flooded area. There is an enchanting view from here of Mount Olympos. I took some photos of Alejandro here. I like them, they are original. When I go back to Italy I’ll put the photos in the forum so you can see them. I knew you couldn’t wait for me to mention photos. But you have to promise me something : no comments and no laughs, please! I’ll explain. I’m not a photogenic person, that means even if I am extremely attractive Rolling Eyes , I don’t look very nice in photographs. That’s why I like to take photos and not being taken. On the contrary, Alejandro is very photogenic and in all the photos I took he looks nice. That’s why he likes to being taken photos. Aha, now I understand Very Happy .

Well, I could go on talking about Dion for hours. Then you would be tired and bored and wouldn’t continue reading. Right? What? You say right! How can you think of that ? After all the things I’ve done for you! Come out and say what you really think…
What? Silence?

It was a hot day. We were near the great baths complex of Dion. A bath would be nice. We stayed under a protected roofed place and we relaxed for a while. We started talking about life, why we care so much about that particular time in history etc etc It was ‘philosophy’ time. We may have lived again at a previous life exactly at the time of Alexander. Since I like painting, I may have been …Lysippos? Or Apelles? For Alejandro, there is no doubt at all. He must be the incarnation of Alexander himself! The more I think about it the more convinced I am. Take first the physical appearance. The face. He is as beautiful as Alexander. When we were at the Acropolis museum, I took a photo of him next to the gorgeous bust of Alexander. When you see it, you will understand why I say that. I can see a strong resemblance with the real Alexander. Real? Wrong. Alexander is only one and now he’s living again in the body of Alexandros o Argentinos.
Strange? Well, it might be true. Who knows. Now, seriously,( at least the ones who have a real interest in Alexander) we may have lived another life and we were people close to Alexander. That’s why as soon as we found this forum we loved it so much; we can endlessly talk about Alexander. We can be with him again.

The villa of Dionysos

Places with a connection to Alexander without Dionysos don’t exist. A big statue of the god was found here. We saw the ruins of this villa. A great banqueting room there is very special. A mosaic floor is preserved in tact. The main scene is flanked by six smaller ones depicting theatrical masks. In the main scene Dionysos stands on the box of his chariot, wearing an ivy wreath and holding a thyrsus in one hand and a wine cup in the form of an animal horn in the other. There is no doubt that it is a masterpiece of mosaic art. The same is true of the smaller panels. I loved it.

How many things we saw that hot day. We kept on walking for hours. I lost a couple of kilos, that’s for sure. It was good that cold water was found everywhere. Then we found a place with water where you could even walk in and that’s what we exactly did. We took off our shoes and we walked in the water. We started splashing it How cold and refreshing! Alejandro for a moment put his head in the water. But as it was not that deep he only managed to wet his hair. I took a photo. Very original. I’m sure if the water was deeper, he would have a bath there.

To sum up I’d say that Dion is a big green park now with fresh water and an archaeological site at the same time. What a combination! You know I love parks. I take a book and go to read it there. But they are ordinary parks with trees, bushes, plants, benches, you know, the usual stuff. Here, you take your book and go to read it in a park with the company of ancient statues, columns and pilasters still standing, marble relief, statue bases which have not been moved since antiquity…etc. Simple, ordinary things??

The museum

We had spent a long time at the archaeological park of Dion and still we hadn’t finished with it. There was also the museum, waiting for us at the other part of the site, in the modern village. We decided to have something to eat first. I mean I saw that Alejandro was starving and I allowed him to eat. I took pity on him. His mum could have done the same. I had something to eat myself to keep him company. We drove through the deserted village ( “where is everybody?”, Alejandro asked. “ They’re having a nap”, I answered. Siesta is very popular in Greece, especially in summer time ) and we finally found a combination of cafeteria, sweet shop, pizzeria, something like that. We asked for a pizza. They were surprised. Pizza, before 18.00? Why not, we thought. Is it a sin to eat pizza at Dion before that time? Anyway, we compromised with a sandwich which had a kilo of French fries as a side dish. And when I say a kilo, I don’t exaggerate, I mean a kilo! They were a lot. I couldn’t eat it up. Alejandro could. He was hungry all right. “Which direction is the museum, I wonder”, he asked while eating. “ Well, I think that direction”, I said pointing at a place in front of me. “ I think, it ‘is at the opposite direction”, he said. “No, I don’t think so. You want to bet? “, I asked.
We didn’t bet but I was right. Ha,ha. Remember, Alejandro? For once I was right about directions.
After paying for the sandwiches and the kilos of potatoes, and after being interrogated by the owner of the place, we tried to find the museum. God, what a curiosity, that woman had! After apologising how sorry she was that a handsome young man like Alejandro was not my son ( she thought he was), the only thing she forgot to ask me was if I prefer pyjamas or night gowns when I sleep! How stupid this woman was! Except for her compassion for me that Alejandro was not my child; we almost both cried, thinking of that.
Ok, we went to the car, my beautiful, new car, we started looking for a sign with the direction of the museum. We couldn’t see any. We saw an old man ( maybe younger than my car) sitting outside his house and we thought to ask him. “ Do you think he knows where the museum is? “, I said. “ Well, I doubt, he may not know if there is a museum in the village at the first place”, Alejandro said. Anyway, I asked him. To our surprise, he did know where the museum was. Just a few meters away from his house! He couldn’t miss it, could he? LOL.

No, no, don’t worry, I won’t write much about the museum. It is one like all the others. Full of ancient stuff. Almost all the statues found in the area are kept here. We had seen so many things so far that our interest had started to decline. At least for that day. We had to keep our enthusiasm for our next museum. One of the most important in Greece: The Delphi museum.

I’m going to write something that I found amusing, though.
In the courtyard there are a group of marble altars. They are called Macedonian altars which used to be placed above tombs. In the most cases the monument is decorated by a pine cone. This has a metaphorical significance. The seeds that will grow in them indicated the life that continues. Well, talking about them, one is particularly charming. One of the dead man’s girlfriends had written the following inscription:
“ I love him, I loved him, I have loved him. Only Aphrodite knows that he loved me! “
Very Happy We didn’t see that, Alejandro. Yes, I remember, finding a bench you just lay there for some time.
Another interesting find was the ‘Hydraulis’. It was a musical instrument and this find from Dion dates from the 1st c BC. It’s the earliest example of the hydraulis, which was the forerunner of the church organ of the west. Extremely interesting. Very nice.

Mount Olympos

To be near the ‘holy’ mountain and not visit it is out of the question. So, after the museum, although we were exhausted and we could hardly walk, we decided to go a little up in the mountain. We arrived at a small water fall where two men had just had a bath in the small pond by it ( I think, as they were wearing their swimming costumes, or were they underwear? ) and were eating some food which was put on a rock. How nice! We could have done the same and I was about to tell Alejandro when I thought of what had happened to Alexander swimming after a hot and tiring day. He almost died! No, no way. I wouldn’t like the same to happen to us.

We arrived in Larissa chosen as our next city for accommodation. We started dreaming of a nice, soft bed to rest our beat bodies. We were there just before the closing time of the shops. What a chaotic town! People and cars everywhere, men in the streets, cars on the pavements… We managed to find a parking after driving around the city passing the same parts for at least three times. Ok, about the parking, the hotel was next. Here, we had our first “ Sorry, we’re booked up. No rooms available. “
“What? That happens to us now that we are exhausted? “, we said. But the situation was under control again. The second hotel we asked had rooms…small, not that clean and without air -condition. What else to ask from life! Of course we took them; we even thanked the owner who let us have these wonderful rooms. We went upstairs. Then I came down again as I was told that there was a garage in the hotel so I could put my car there.
I asked him for directions to bring the car. I still had this chaotic scene in my mind. He offered to come with me to show me the way. He left someone else in his place. “What a polite man “, I thought. When we reached my car he said, “ I can drive it back to the hotel; give me the keys”. For a moment I though he was nuts but maybe that was the treatment of men to women here in Larissa. Maybe he wanted to be a gentleman. But soon he started asking me millions of questions( even more than Alejandro had asked me during the whole trip). I was busy answering the questions (a second interrogation the same day, help!) when I saw Alejandro out walking. He was surprised to see a stranger driving my car. He got in and I explained briefly what was going on. Finally we arrived at the hotel and we went to our rooms. But do you think we went to bed straight away? No way! Being over excited we couldn’t sleep. Alejandro came to my room and we started listening to music. He had his mp3 with him and he put some songs to my laptop, which being recently bought it was still like a virgin. If only you could see it now Alejandro. It’s full with songs. Alejandro was surprised I knew and liked the song “My Humps” of the ‘Black eyed peas’. Was that a compliment, I'm wondeing, now Rolling Eyes ? Anyway, right now I’m listening to the Gladiator soundtrack. Oh, it’s so beautiful. A really sad piece of music. It makes me cry.
And then it happened. It started when I mentioned how sad I was because my play on Alexander keeps on being changed and I’m afraid it will take some more time to finish it. I’m not satisfied with the result I have so far. So, it was not ready when Alejandro spent some days with me and my family at my country house. “ If it was ready, we could act it out”, I said. “My nephew, Lambros, wanted to be Hephaestion and you, you would be Alexander, of course” And I continued saying “ I know my nephew is good, but I’m not sure about you, Alejandro. Can you show me that you are good at acting?” “ Sure, “, he said with enthusiasm and started acting scenes from the movie ( he knows it by heart) . Suddenly he said, “ Look, I like this scene, in the end of the film, when Ptolemy confesses to Cadmos that they had killed Alexander…” and then Alejandro started playing both roles being Ptolemy and Cadmos at the same time changing his voice.
“The tryth is we killed him. By silence, we consented. Because, we couldn’t go on…..Oh, just throw all that away, Cadmos. It’s an old fool’s rubbish…”, ‘Ptolemy’ said .
And when it was Cadmos’ turn, Alejandro said “ Yes, great pharaoh”, imitating even the face of Cadmos. That was it! We burst out laughing; we couldn’t stop. And as Alejandro was repeating the same phrase, we were laughing so hard we nearly fell over. And do you think that Alejandro could finish showing me his acting abilities only with Cadmos? No, Tina Turner was next. He started singing and imitating her from a song she sings with Eros Ramazzoti. Oh, my god. What a night! I will never forget that. Alejandro is a good laugh! I’m not sure if we bothered the other quests in the hotel ( a big chance we did, though ) and when I went down to pay, in the morning, I couldn’t look the owner on his face. Very embarrassing moment, and thinking about the questions he had asked me the previous day, I got even more embarrassed.

Yes, Alejandro is the best man to be with, believe me. He has a sense of humour, he is so entertaining. Come with us next summer to our next trip and you will find out about it. He is so good!

And I am damn terrible Confused , having made you reading all these, aren’t I?. Well, there is still the possibility, you gave a ...pass to that second part which is long.

So, after deciding to stop here, Joanna had to continue writing the next part of the description of the trip the next day.
But making people bored, now, she was not loved by everybody……

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh My God! I missed it! Sad
you need to write a book Joanna....
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adriv,that,s a great idea.It made me think about something.I posted this onto the Oliver,s Interview thread but I,m putting it here also so Yanna sees it.
I think that Yanna,s wonderful account of the pilgrimage to Pella etc. ought to be sent to Oliver because firstly he refers directly to it in the interview and secondly I think he,d love to read it.It,s so full of enthusiasm and passion for Alexander that he,d immediately understand and appreciate seeing it all written down .After all,without the movie this forum wouldn,t exist,Alexandrians wouldn,t have met and the trip wouldn,t have happened.
So how about it you two,is Oliver going to get a signed copy of your expedition?
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow! you guys really had a great time! i am soooooo jelous right now and i missed the holiday season so i cant go anytime soon.... ah well there is always next year right?
Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


15th July 2006

Saturday morning in Larissa. I would prefer Paris but I couldn’t do anything about it that day. I went to have a coffee. I can’t open my eyes without my coffee. You understand me, I guess, except Pam who drinks Coke(?) for breakfast. I remember her, when we were in Florence, looking desperately for Coke all the time.
So there I was, drinking frappe’ and relaxing at a café’. Then I had the surprise of my life. I wanted to buy something and I was waiting patiently for the shops to open. It was 8.00, nothing. 8.30, no. 9.00. still closed. “What the hell is going on here”, I thought. “Do they open at 9.30?” No, that sounded strange. Well, that was it! I couldn’t wait any more. I asked a woman and she told me, listen, she told me that the shops are closed on Saturday, in summer, all day long, even in the morning. Isn’t that crazy? Shops closed on Saturday mornings? I had never heard of anything like that before in my life! How stupid!

Ok, we left from that strange city ( I didn’t like it any way) and before going to Delphi, we thought of stopping at Thermopylai to see the statue of Leonidas. What a tortuous experience! I don’t mean the statue, which is nice and quite impressive, but we couldn’t stand the hot weather. It was too hot! I wanted to spend some time there looking at the statue and the Pass but if I had stayed there for a minute more I wouldn’t be here now writing these lines as I would have been dead because of the heatwave. What? I should have stayed there more? I pretend I didn’t hear that and I continue writing.

We arrived in Delphi, at last. I had been there before but I didn’t remember it very well. For some things it was like the first time.
I’ll explain. I had been there when I was a child with my grandfather. Very small to remember anything. The last time I went there ( before this one with Alejandro, of course) and I was much older it was with Jimmy an ex-boyfriend of mine, who, more or less, looks like… Brad Pitt ( no exaggeration). I know some of you don’t think that Brad is handsome but I find him extremely sexy. To be sexy and attractive has nothing to do with the conventional beauty of the body.
Anyway, maybe that boyfriend of mine has something to do about it. Because having a gorgeous man with you, and being deeply in love with him, Apollo with his temple has no much chance to be noticed. Right? Right. Poor Apollo, sorry. You see, I came back to see you.
I didn’t say anything to Alejandro about Jimmy as I didn’t think it was necessary. For a minute I thought of doing so but then I changed my mind. Alejandro is just a boy; he might not have understood anything about the most important love of my life!
Well, I didn’t say anything to Alejandro that day but... now everybody knows. Confused

I need something to cheer me up. I’ll get a beer.


Before visiting the site and the marvellous museum, Alejandro wanted to eat something. I was a little hungry myself but I could wait. We got some cheese pies ( the worst I had in my life) and eating them in the car (just to save time) we went to see the archaeological site first. Except the Acropolis ticket which is the most expensive ( 12 euros) the Delphi is the second more expensive ticket I paid. It cost me 9 euros. But it’s worth the price, even more, believe me. Delphi is fantastic. And now, without Jimmy next to me, finally got the appreciation it deserves.

The landscape is one of the most impressive in all Greece.
“ Such is the splendour and magnificence of the setting that the visitor is overcome with awe and ecstasy the moment he turns his gaze from the olive groves of the Pleistos valley to those rugged crags which tower over and enclose the archaeological site from north and east”, my book says. Alejandro said if he had to choose a place to build a house in Greece, he would have chosen this place. I’m with him but… you know my first choice.

Now, we are inside. We start walking on the Sacred Way; after two turns we’ll reach the temple of Apollo, which is its terminus. To right and left of the Sacred Way there are a lot of treasuries and votives, testimonies of great historic events. We should have paid more attention to them, Alejandro. I do remember the Treasury of the Athenians, not because I’m an Athenian but because it’s the only one you can see restored. The restoration of this charming edifice was possible since its building material had survived virtually intact. It was built around 500 BC, and that means Alexander must have seen it when he went there. Alexander loved Athens, the cradle of civilization. I’m sure he stopped for a while to see it. We did the same. We even took some photos. I’m happy. But I would be happier if Alexander was there with us. Or maybe he was ?! Our love and admiration for him is so big that there is no doubt his spirit was certainly with us wherever we went. He didn’t leave us for a minute Smile . He loves us.

I don’t remember seeing Sibyl’s Rock. It’s a pity I missed it. That was the rock that was believed the first Sibyl, the old-aged prophetess had stood upon it when she came to Delphi and pronounced an oracle for the first time. Of course, I’m talking about the time when Gaea was the sovereign deity here before Apollo.

Near it there is the Stoa of the Athenians which they erected after their victory in the naval battle of Salamis. Don’t ask me if I remember this specific stoa. Do you, Alejandro?

Many, many things. I need a lot of pages to write about all. And doing so, I would bore you and then I wouldn’t be only the woman ‘not loved by all, but ‘get rid of her, at once’, woman Rolling Eyes .

We are in front of the temple of Apollo, the most significant and sacred building in the Delphic sanctuary. Alexander knew it and he went there hoping to hear what he wanted to hear. But, it was not the day to give oracles and Alexander probably knew it but he didn’t care. He had his way to do things. Alexander was not an ordinary person and Pythia probably didn’t know that so she didn’t care. Wrong. So, she refused to go to the cavern to give him the prophecy. What a mistake! Alexander dragged her all the way up in the temple and demanded her to do her duty. In front of the entrance of the temple of Apollo you can see the sloping part that leads up inside it. I concentrated on it for a while and the whole scene happened again, there, in front of my eyes. Oh god, Alexander is even more attractive when he’s angry. I wonder what the priests did seeing all this.

The entire north side of the temple of Apollo was closed by a long retaining wall, known as the ischegaon ( literally, hold back the earth). The famous bronze statue of the Charioteer ( Hniochos) was found there.
Behind this wall there was a large rectangular niche which housed the votives of Krateros, son of the homonymous general of Alexander. This was a group of bronze statues representing a lion scene by Alexander and his general Krateros. These statues were works of the great 4th century sculptors, Lysippos and Leochares. The subject of the mosaic ‘The Lion Hunt’ in Pella is the same as that of the votive here. The artist who created the mosaic wished to render a scene of the famous hunt at Granikos , in which Alexander’s life was in danger when he was attacked by a lion, and was saved at the last minute by his friend Krateros (or maybe the opposite happened, son of Krateros?)

The theater, oh, yes, the theater could accommodate some 5,000 spectators. The view from there is magnificent. In addition to dramatic performances, music contests were also held here for, since Apollo was god of music, these, along with poetry competitions, had priority in the sanctuary. If only I lived that time! I would go there with my precious poems to compete and win the first prize which was …what? A laurel wreath? Hm, let me think again…I could save the trip. ( kidding)

In the 5th c BC the inhabitants of Knidos, a Greek city in Asia Minor, dedicated the Lesche of the Knidians, a long hall which served as a place for meeting and discussion. What was so special about it? Its marvellous murals in its interior which were the work of the painter Polygnotos and depicted the Fall of Troy and Odysseus’descent into the underground
(Hades). The right choice of murals for a meeting room. Think about death, and you become a better person. My opinion.

The stadium can be reached following the uphill pathway above the temenos. It’s in a very good state of preservation. The first stadium was constructed on this site in the 5th c BC but it was smaller. It was here that the athletic events in the great panhellenic festival of the Pythian games took place. Wait a minute, I could participate in these games ( which sport activity? Well, that’s a detail) and get a first prize, which is ….the laurel wreath again!!! No way, I can’t compete with these crazy Greeks.

In a distance we could see another complex of ancient ruins. The Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia ( it means before the temple) . The second important sanctuary of Delphi. There are various buildings there : two temples of Athena, a Tholos ( which we mistook for the actual temple of Athena) , two treasuries and altars.
Why are there these temples of Athena at a place dominated by the presence of Apollo? And why two? And how come and Mycenaean vases were found there? Questions, questions, questions and that reminds me Alejandro who bombarded me with questions as if I was the Pandognostis ( the one who knows everything). One question after the other, I didn’t even have time to breathe. I got confused sometimes and I was pointing to the wrong directions, I was renaming places, I was dating exhibits giving wrong times, and I should have brushed up on my ancient Greek,… AND I can’t wait to go to Argentina to visit the archaeological places in this country ( are there any, Alejandro? ) and take revenge! If you are with me, Alejandro, I won’t stop asking you questions, one after the other, endlessly, no pity…I’ll be merciless.

Here are some answers for the previous questions. The temple of Athena was there as it was built in around 500 c BC to replace another, earlier temple which is included among the most ancient large temples of Greece. Mycenaean vases and figurines found there confirms the existence of cult from prehistoric times. But if Apollo all of a sudden decided to leave from his birthplace, the island of Delos and come to Delphi to become the boss of the place, knocking out Gaea, the previous deity, he couldn’t do the same with Athena. No way Apollo, you can’t do that to your beloved half-sister. So, let it be, let her temple be…
And why two? Well, and here there is an explanation. The second temple was built in around 370 BC, near the old one which was destroyed (not by Apollo, I swear!) Understand? Ok, good.
Now these two temples of Athena are between the Tholos, the real star of Delphi!...which I mistook for a minute as the place where Pythia was giving the prophecies. I should put the blame on that long time ago boyfriend of mine. I remember him looking at me all the time when we were there, and when Brad, sorry, Jimmy looks at you, you can’t concentrate on anything else but only on him and his gorgeous eyes.
Poor Tholos; it’s destined for being mistaken. Because this time I thought it was the actual temple of Athena, so impressive and nice with its three standing columns ( shame on me! )
Now, during my next visit, the temples of Athena will be given their right position. At last!
And what’s that Tholos, that made me feel embarrassed twice? OK, I’m quoting from the book. “It’s a circular marble structure 13.5 m in diameter, in the Doric order. The cella walls were surrounded by 20 columns, three of which have been restored with the epistyle, triglyphs, metopes and part of the guttering of the roof. On the metopes are depicted scenes from the battle of the Amazons and the battle of the Centaurs. The cella’s interior was decorated with 10 Corinthian half columns attached to the wall. The wonderful architectural plan of the building, the perfection of its execution and its exceptional sculpted decoration all contrived to create an entity of outstanding loveliness. The Tholos, which is the work of Theodoros of Phokaia, was built at the beginning of the 4th c BC; that means Alexander saw it when he was there, except if he was so busy arguing with Pythia that didn’t pay attention and when he was asked about it he didn’t have the slightest idea which building they were talking about (if it happened like that he’s worse than me).Who was that Theodoros? I have to find more info about him. He also wrote a book explicity about its Tholos. Good job, Theodore! It was his masterpiece, I guess and he was very proud of it.
Ok, guys, we know how and who built the Tholos but what was the purpose of it? Unknown. Nobody knows. Really? Aha, I’m not the only one without answers.

Did I mention the Gymnasium? No? Bad for you.Ok, ok, I’ll keep it brief.
It was used for the preparation of the athletes ( not the greedy ones) about to take part in the Pythian games.

Another thing we missed Alejandro, ( I’m getting nervous) is the Kastalian spring, named after the nymph Kastalia.
As you walk up the public highway from the gymnasium you are confronted by the awesome gorge which separates the two Phaidriads ( the gigantic rocks, known in antiquity as Yampeia and Nauplia ). From the first of these the renowned Kastalian spring gushes forth. This spring has always been intimately associated with the sanctuary and the operation of the oracle. Water was carried from here to the sanctuary. Here the priests and Piligrims cleansed themselves and here Pythia bathed before entering the adyton of the temple of Apollo to deliver the oracles. Very important and we didn’t see it.
“In 1957 a chance find of considerable significance enabled archaeologists to solve the riddle of the appearance of the original fountain of Archaic and Classical times. That is the fountain mentioned by Pindar, Euripidis and other authors of the period. During work on the arrangement of the site and the construction of the new road, the fountain we see on the left, (which we didn’t see, Alejandro ) , beside the road, was revealed. In front of it was a paved square with benches around three sides. At the far end of this court was the cistern, into which the water was directed along an artificial channel. From this cistern the water flowed through 7 holes covered with bronze spouts in the form of lion heads, which were on the wall in front of it. Beneath each spout there was a marble basin, the one on the left has survived, (I can’t breathe. I think I’m about to faint. I wanted to see that!), with a depression in the middle in which those coming to collect water could place their hydrias.
No! I want my Kastalian spring, help, I want it…

The Museum

Sorry, but even if I promised myself to keep this third part short ( or shorter than the previous ones) I can’t omit one of the most important museums of Greece.

Here, there is almost everything. You name it and you have it. Shall I mention only the most famous works in the museum? Yes? Ok, I took pity on you and I will do so.

- The Statues of Kouroi. Who are they? Another mystery. Are they Cleobis and Biton? ( do you know their story?) or Castor and Polydeuces, sons of Zeus, who were widely worshipped in the Peloponnese? Who knows these things? One thing is known, though. An inscription on their base tells us that they were made by the sculptor, Polymedes, of Argos, and they are dated in about 580 BC. God, they look too serious.

- A huge bull is at the end of Room IV, that I found interesting. It is larger than life size and constructed of silver sheets fixed to a wooden frame. A striking and marvellously executed original work. It dates to the second half of the 6th c BC. I liked it. Do you remember it, Alejandro? or you missed it like the portrait of Olympias in the Thessaloniki museum (now, I remembered it again; shame on you )

-The Treasury of the Siphnians had some very nice friezes.
In one we can see a meeting of the gods and a psychostasia ( a weighing of souls) of Achilles and Memnon. The interesting thing is that the gods are split into two groups: the protectors of the Trojans and the protectors of the Greeks.
In another there is the battle of the gods against the giants (Gigantomachia).The treatment of the subject and its execution show that the unknown artist was neither random nor a novice.
Another side of a frieze depicts the abduction of women. Alexander wouldn’t have liked it if he had seen it, but as he was busy with the quarrel, he might have missed it

- The Sphinx of the Naxians dominates the other half of this room. I asked the sphinx to smile and I took a nice photo of her. She looks even better than me in the photos. Oh, I’m going to cry.

- The white kynix, one of the loveliest exhibits in the museum. That’s why I have made a copy of it myself. It shows Apollo sitting on a folding stool and dressed in a white peplos and purple cloak, crowned with myrtle leaves. The god’s left hand is plucking the strings of a seven-stringed lyre while with his right one he pours a libation of red wine. A masterly work dating to ca 480 BC. Hm, not bad, it looked exactly like my copy.

-The column of the dancers. One of the most attractive and best known pieces in the museum. According to the inscription on the base, it was a votive offering by the Athenians. Now I understand why it’s considered to be attractive. The Athenians had good taste. They’ve always had.(except me and my choice of husbands )

- I liked a small statue depicting a sleeping Eros on a rock. You know, the plump baby. It’s cute, though. Together with it, there was a smiling girl and a boy with a goose. Two other small statues, I mean. Why have they put them together? Any significance?

- The statue of Antinous. Excellent! You can’t help falling in love with him. I did, the moment I saw him. I completely understand the emperor Hadrian who was crazy about him and when the boy was drowned in the Nile trying to save the emperor’s life, he was honoured as a demigod by order of Hadrian. Poor Antinous, but more…poor emperor, it’s not a small thing to lose a lover like him!
Interesting fact is that, of the hundreds of statues that were put up to him all over the dominion of the Roman Empire, the one at Delphi is the finest.

- There is a marble bust of a philosopher or priest that is thought to represent Plutarch. It’s in the last Room XIV and how stupid of me to miss it. Did you see it, Alejandro?

- Room XIII has only one exhibit and I kept to present it in the end as it is the Museum’s masterpiece, “The Charioteer. What can I say about it. It’s lovely; one of the finest surviving works of ancient Greek sculpture. It was an offering made in ca 470 BC by Polyzalus, tyrant of Gela in Sicily, to honour his victory at the Pythian Games some years before. I believe this statue was important even back that time, as it was erected on the right of the Sacred way immediately after the temple of Apollo.
The statue is 1.80 m high. The young athlete ( I wonder who the model was, not bad) wears a long chiton with a high girdle and straps pulled tight under his armpits. His right hand holds the reins. His head is crowned with the victor’s fillet, a wide ribbon decorated with a meander of silver inlaid bronze. The eyes, which are inlaid with white glass for eyeballs, light brown for the irises and black stones for the pupils, are preserved in excellent condition. And the eyelashes are preserved, too! It’s incredible! Looking around at other exhibits, all of a sudden I thought about him and I couldn’t remember if there were eyelashes. I asked Alejandro who happened to be near me this moment and he said he was not sure, either. Without hesitation I went back to check. Oh, yes, there were eyelashes! I turned to leave when I saw Alejandro coming to check on that himself.
If I had to give this statue a nickname, I would call it “The eyes”. The most striking feature on it.
Who was the sculptor of this magnificent statue? It would be nice if it was me but since I’m not that old ( I proved it Alejandro, didn’t I? I do know the ‘Black Eyed Peas’ and I like their song: ‘My humps’. God, I can’t get over this insult ), let me get out of the way and leave the place for the sculptor Pythagoras, Calamis and Critius, the first one to be the most probable.

- Vouzas. No, no it’s not another piece in the museum ( I’m through with it. Glad?) but the hotel we chose to spend the night. What a fantastic view it has! I took some pics and I’ll show them to you. Imagine we were given two rooms on the 5th floor and the reception is on the 7th. That means the whole hotel was actually built on the side of the hill and it has a panoramic view in front. Magnificent! The same thought the Japanese who were all over the hotel. For a minute I forgot I was in Delphi and I thought I was somewhere in Tokyo. I almost learnt Japanese.

Breakfast at the hotel this time. We couldn’t resist to stay away from the splendid view (no, it’s a lie; breakfast was included in the price this time ). After we had a light breakfast ( two cups of coffee, orange juices, twenty slices of bread with butter and jam, three packets of cookies, one kilo of yogurt ) I went shopping, but Alejandro (as the usual type of man who hates shopping especially with women ) stayed at the hotel to try “sorry, it’s not working today”(I have heard that before) internet with the EXCELLENT connection.
There are some cute shops there where you can find good jewellery. I bought a dolphin silver pendant, the best of its kind. I want to give it to my mum as a present. In case she doesn’t like it, I’ll keep it. That happens often, and that is what I do. I bought more presents and something for me, too. A nice bracelet and a matching ring. It’s based on an ancient Greek design and it’s lovely. To see how much I like it I wear it almost everyday when I go out. It’s not a usual thing for me. I have a lot of jewellery but I seldom wear. If I like something I wear it most of the time. That bracelet and ring from Delphi is one of my favourite pieces. Then later in Athens I bough another ring that I ALWAYS wear. Now, I mean it! But I’ll tell you about it later.
Going back to the hotel, I found Alejandro using the internet. Wow, it was working!

We had to leave, though, so after checking out, we started driving towards Athens. But we wanted to make a stop at Chaeronia where the famous battle took place and admire the Lion , the beautiful, elegant, marvellous statue which was erected there after the battle by Philip and Alexander. And how could we pass the town where Plutarch was born and not stop it to see it? As I was driving Alejandro said: “ Look, there is a road sign ‘KERONIA’, do you thing that’s the city we’re looking for? “
I saw it but I told him I didn’t think it was that city as in Greek it should be written differently . It should be “ XAIRONEIA” with “X” not “K”; with “AI” not “E”.
“Yes, but maybe they wrote it using Latin characters or the English way of pronouncing it“, Alejandro said something like that.
“Why to do that if they wrote it in Greek? If they wanted to write it also in Latin characters, they should have put it under the Greek one which is... Xaironia “, I shouted saying it aloud in Greek.
Stupid of them or stupid of us ( me? ) , we past the city where the Lion was , yes the beautiful lion the one that Alejandro calls…potato??? No comment!

We shouted, we screamed, now we are friends again. We might have missed the potato lion, eh, sorry the beautiful lion statue , I wanted to say, but we had just reached Thebes. We drove to the center of the city. We were trying to find the house of Pindar which still exists. We saw some ruins of a house and I let Alejandro go and ask if that was the house we were wanted to see. I told him to go so he could practice the Greek he had learnt during our trip so far. Let me tell you something here. If Alejandro had stayed for …let’s say, for a month with me he would have learnt Greek fluently. He’s very clever and he has an excellent memory. If I was his mum I would be very proud of him. Well, I guess his mother is proud of him. You can’t help liking him. Apart from the fact that he’s very good looking , he’s the smartest man I’ve ever met in my life! I repeat ‘man’ because for a woman, my niece, Natasa, is the most beautiful and most intelligent girl I’ve seen. I’m not the only one who says that. I just can’t wait to see what she’s going to become when she grows up. As for Alejandro, there is no doubt, he will conquer the world! I will be very, very surprised if he won’t. No compliments here Alejandro. I mean it.
Thebes, a disappointment. An ugly or I’d say nothing special to write home about. Alexander destroyed it? Good, he did well…

Athens. Weren’t we lucky? Going near Athens I realised that there was no traffic. It was Sunday, an August Sunday! Good!

We arrived at my place. I big, enormous flat which it shrunk when I washed it in hot water. To imagine how small it is , a really fat person doesn’t fit in it. Kim, who’s my uncle’s wife, and weighs more or less 180 kg , the last time she visited me, she was stuck at the entrance of the living room and she couldn’t move. Poor woman, we had to push her hard, to help her move from there.

After watching some TV ( not “Sex and the City” one of Alejandro’s favourite programs Rolling Eyes ) and having something to eat, we went straight to bed. We were tired. The next day we decided to visit the Archaeological Museum of Athens. The Acropolis was for the day after that. Pella with its Palace was our first town to tour and the Acropolis, in Athens the last. The best combination!
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joanna wrote:

It was late, even with a broken heart ( I didn’t want to leave the theater) we had to go. We chose Katerini for our next accommodation.
But before leaving we went shopping. Alejandro was looking for a ring with the Vergina Sun. After finding a shop and after trying on aaaallll the rings that poor man had there ( he’s not like me about shopping), Alejandro found his ring. Very nice. He kept on wearing it. He also bought a copy of an Alexander’s coin to wear as a charm aroung his neck. Beautiful. I got one for my nephew, too.
We arrived in Katerini and we found a cute hotel, right away. “Orpheas Hotel”. There was even internet connection there. Wow! What a luxury!
We had dinner at the hotel…the fruit we had bought in Pella, the peaches. Delicious! Everything is good in Pella.
Before sleeping we watched part of another documentary called “The Spartans”. This one was good and informative. What a life they had! Very hard, indeed.

Joanna, I've been reading and your account of the trip is simply amazing. I love it, and it reminds of all our trip, I enjoyed it so much. Just a thing about that part... how could you forget about the picture with the helmet, the shield and the sword that the man in the shop made you take me? Laughing
Illegal activity you mentioned? What wasn't legal? I deny any kind of involvement in any sort of criminal activity? If any evil plan you mastered was conducted, I was a mere instrument, with no conscience of wrong and absolutely no understanding of its criminality. You and only you are responsible for the illegal acts I deny existed. Laughing That's the defence from the law student. Laughing
What did we write in the book at Aegae? Who knows these things? It was something about following Alexander on his quest and remembering he day in which he became king. I just remember that I put someting about Megas Alexandros o Makedon, Basileas and that I signed Alexandros Argedinos. Very Happy
By the way, wasn't Vergina called that because of the Vergina star (actually the Argead star, which I don't know if it relates to Aegae), or was that just another one of the things you made up at the moment to leave me quiet and appease my curiosity? Laughing
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, where are the pictures? Smile Wink
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